¡Dios bendito! ¡Hurra, Hurra, Hurra! Tierra a la vista!Land Ho dice el mensaje de inreach.
También ¡Bendito este siglo de las comunicaciones! Es, realmente asombroso, que mientras estoy en mi apretado asiento del avión. Puedo ver en mi pantalla individual que vamos a 12,000 m de altura y que faltan 2hrs para llegar a Papeete. Asombroso es también, que puedo comprar tiempo de internet en mi laptop, abrir el correo electrónico y leer el mensaje de Malaika TIERRA A LA VISTA LAND HO.
Prácticamente estamos arriba de Malaika, sobrevolando esos mares.
No hay palabras, sólo emociones y agradecimiento.
God blessed! Hurrey, hurrey, hurrey! Tierra a la Vista! Land Ho says the inreach message.
Blessed this High Tech communications century. Amazing is that I can be in my little sit inside an airplane which is flying at 12,000 m altitude, and be able to have wifi , open my laptop and see Malaika´s message : TIERRA A LA VISTA LAND HO! Amazing is that we are almost in the same point of the South Pacific , but we are flying above a blue sky, and they are sailing in cloudy humid seas.
I am at gate 93, the staff announced it´s time to embark.
Alonso’s dad, Pancho, Xavier his eldest brother and Lety, Pancho´s wife, joined the same flight hoping to welcome Malaikos. All excited. I open mi mail for the last time before leaving.
Inreach message at the top of my inbox. Julian texted at 12:00 “Rain & t/storms for final day. Hope does not obscure moon for midnite arrival. The final test. Cant lose focus”
Hoy 17 de abril Julian festeja su 70 avo aniversario.
Yo estoy punto de volar a San Francisco -Papeete – Nuku Hiva. Un día y medio de viaje. Malaika nos avisa que estima llegar el jueves a la luz de la luna.
I am about to take- off. Three flights: Mex – SFO- Papeete_ Nuku Hiva. A day and a half travel time. Malaika is 250 miles from Nuku HIva. ETA Thursday moonlight. (as it was texted)
En Francia se llora por la belle dame Notre Dame. A bordo de Malaika hay otra belle dame francesa que no puede llorar porque está enfocada en llegar con bien a las islas que, también pertenecen a Francia, a las Marquesas .
In France everyone is sighing for la belle dame Notre Dame. On board Malaika´s there is another belle dame that can only focus on getting safe and fine to Marquesas islands, which by the way, are French, too.
Capitana Eugenie Russell. Alegre, dinámica, dicharachera, su buen humor iguala a su estamina. Ha vivido más tiempo en un barco que en Tierra Firme. Campeona velerista ( 1er Lugar Banderas Bay 2019).Mitad francesa, mitad gringa pero de corazón nayarita.
Capitain Eugenie Russell. Dynamic, cheerful,her good humor is equivalent to her stamina , always high. She peppers her conversation with local sayings, pulls out laughs from the most rude sailors. She has spent more time on board a boat than in firm land. Has won sailing Championships, most recent 1st Prize Banderas Bay last month. Half French, Half “Gringa”, but her heart is nayarita.
La vida le ha presentado una gran oportunidad de probarse a sí misma como capitana responsable y conocedora tanto de los mares como de los seres humanos dentro de un barco. Si la ves enseñando a velear a los más pequeñitos te darás cuenta que es su pasión, quiere contagiar a todos el gusto por la vela, el viento y la aventura pero con el conocimiento necesario.
Life gave her the great opportunity to proof herself as a responsable and knowledgeable Capitain. Knows profoundly about winds, tides and human behaviors inside a boat. If you watch her teaching the little ones, you will know sailing is her passion. Always willing to share her love of everything related with sailing.
Eugenie fue mi maestra de veleo, ella fue la que me dijo – “Claro que si puedes aprender, ¡A huevo que sí!”-. La conocimos porque nuestro amigo Jaime Migoya, quería estar muy bien entrenado y preparado para atravesar el Atlántico y encontró el curso idóneo de la American Sailing Association en Vallarta. Lo tomamos cinco amigos, cinco días y ella fue la instructora. Desde entonces Julian y yo tenemos una gran amiga y maestra. Malaika ha estado a su cargo y cuidado cuando no veleamos, en las mejores manos estuvo y en las mejores condiciones la entregó.
She was my sailing teacher and trainer. She told me – Yes you can learn, ¡A Huevo que sí! Julian and I have found on her a great friend and teacher. Eugenie has taken care and looked after Malaika, professionally speaking,. Could not be in better hands.
Los tripulantes van felices con panzas llenas, anoche pescaron 2 atunes, uno de los cuales han preparado en el asador de cubierta, y el otro fileteado en el congelador como reserva. Los vientos Alisios siguen de su lado; la brisa y temperatura son más que perfectas. Saben que pronto avistarán tierra y por eso sienten una tristeza anticipada. La gran travesía se aproxima a su fin. ¿Volverán a sentirse abismados en la inmensidad? Quizás nunca más sean tan indispensables el uno para con el otro.
Han adherido a sus almas una nueva dimensión del tiempo y del transcurrir del mismo. Introspecciones y sueños que nunca habían imaginado. Han experimentado eso que llaman lo sublime.
The crew go happy with full bellies, last night they caught 2 tuna fish, one of which was prepared in the grill under the stars, and the other filleted in the freezer as a reserve. Trade winds guide them; the breeze and temperature are more than perfect. They know that soon they will spot land and for that reason they feel an anticipated sadness. The great crossing is nearing its end. Will they ever again feel abysmal in the immensity? Perhaps they will never be so indispensable to one another.
They have added to their souls a new dimension of time and of its passing. Insights and dreams that they had never imagined. They have experienced kind of the sublime.
Me llega un mail the Air Tahiti que faltan 4 días para mi vuelo Papeete – Nuku Hiva. Me da un brincó el corazón…4 días?! Checo la última posición de Malaika y sí, se ve muy cerca de las pequeñas islitas Marquesas que quedan antes de las Polinesias. Una de esas es Nuku Hiva. Antes de esta quijotesca aventura nunca había escuchado de esas islas; también hay otros pedacitos de paraíso llamados Fatu Hiva,Hiva Oa, Ua Huka.
Vuelvo a mirar el mapa – “Tan lejos , Tan cerca”- , Wim Wenders siempre me gustó. Leo Randall Boscow en el triangulito azul del mapa. Me acuerdo de la generosidad espontánea de Randy al ofrecerle su garmin a Julian, porque no llegó el suyo. Razón por la que en vez, de decir Malaika Nihill, dice el nombre Randy. Otra manera de hacer la travesía, Randy tiene corazón de mar, ha estado en constante comunicación conmigo y sigue los pasos de Malaika muy de cerca.
Randy Boscow. The departure day.
Mi mente vuela a Vallarta. Se instala en la noche anterior a que zarparan. Estábamos todos cansados de hacer taaantos preparativos. Nuestras mentes saturadas de revisar por última vez los pendientes. Cptn. Jules, en un afán de animarnos y recordarnos que era una maravillosa aventura la que emprenderíamos, nos invita sonriente a cenar a un lugarcito de Pizzas cercano. Randy, Alonso, Ned y yo aceptamos. Eugenie ya se había ido a su casa en Sayulita para despedirse y empacar. Con una cerveza enfrente nos mirábamos expectantes. Nos sentíamos diferentes a todos los demás que estaban por ahí. Algo fuerte y denso estaba dentro de cada uno. Se me ocurrió hacer una quiniela de la fecha estimada de llegada a Nuku Hiva, la apunté en mi celular , por whattapp le pregunté a Eugenie su fecha estimada de llegada.
La apuesta quedó así: Randy el día 23 al mediodía, Alonso el día 21 a las 3 pm, Ned el día 20 a las 3 pm, Julian el día 20 a las 2 pm, Eugenie el día 19 al mediodía, Angélica el día 22 antes del mediodía. Hasta ahora parece que llegarán el 19 pero claro que el tiempo en el mar es muy diferente al nuestro.
esperar, desesperar, esperanza, esperando,
esperar a que pase el tiempo, esperar a que llegue la hora.
I got an email from Taihiti Air, it says, in 4 days I would be flying Papeete – Nuku Hiva. I feel the litlle jump in my heart. I check the map and indeed it shows near, very near of those minuscule islets called Marquesas, one of them is Nuku Hiva. I never heard of that islands before this Quixotic Journey. It shows other bits of paradise called Fatu hiva , Hiva OA, Ua Huka.
I look again at the map again, its “So far, So Close”. I always liked Wim Wenders. I read Randall Boscow in the little blue triangle. I remember Randys espontaneous generosity in offering his garmin to Julian a few hours before set sails, J´s garmin was left somewhere else. Thats why instead of showing Malaika Nihill it shows Randy´s name. Another way to do the Puddle Jump, Randy´s heart is made of seas. He has been following Malaikas news very close
I look at the map again, my mind flies back to the night before the set sails. All of us were exhausted and saturated. Julian tries to cheer us inviting us to have a Pizza near by. Eugenie has left to Sayulita , to spend the last night with her wife and pack her stuff. Siiting in that little place in Nuevo Vallarta resort made us felt as if we were completely different from everyone else. Something strong and dense was inside us. With a beer in front of each , it occurred to me to bet the estimated arrival date to Nuku Hiva. I wrote down the guesses in my cell phone, asked thru whattsapp Eugenie guess. It came up like this.
Randy 4/23 at noon, Alonso 4/21 at 3 pm, Ned 4/29 at 3 pm, Julian 4/ 20 at 2 pm, Eugenie 4/ 19 at , Angélica 4/22 before noon. It seems that estimated arrival date will be around the 19th . But time in the ocean is very different from our time, specially near the Equator Line, who knows?
La ceremonia de la Línea Ecuatorial fue una pequeña fiesta simbólica. Los malaikos nadaron “en cueros” , sin ropa, en plena línea ecuatorial. Luego se vistieron con sus trajes de Neptuno, luchador y otras deidades relacionadas o no, con los mares y vientos e hicieron libaciones con “sake” y música africana. ¿ Quién los inspiró para hacer semejante fiesta internacional? No lo sé. Pero puedo imaginar que están cansados de los turnos y guardias nocturnas, de seguir navegando sin parar… no han pescado recientemente, y los alimentos ya no son una sorpresa sino una repetición. Esta última etapa es la verdadera prueba del aguante y la paciencia. Les mando todo mi cariño y que encuentren entereza y optimismo.
The Equatorial Line ceremony was a small symbolic fiesta. The malaikos swam naked in the Equatorial ocean. Then they dressed with costumes related with Neptune´s kingdom, I cant imagine a luchador in the ocean…made libations with sake wine and danced african rythms, probably it was un-orthodox international party but I can imagine they are tired of night-watches and putting up and down sails. Maybe bored of repeating menus and most of all having 360 degrees of blue ocean horizon. This last stage is the real endurance test. My love and best wishes to each one of them.
Soon we are going to meet in beautiful Nuku-Hiva, an island that is known part of Marquesas.
“Courage and perseverance have a magical talisman, before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish into air. These qualities have ever been displayed in their mightiest perfection, as attendants in the retinue of strong passions” . John Quincy Adams.
Los Malaikos han encontrado los gentiles vientos Alisios y van deslizándose a 7 nudos. Todas las preparaciones para la celebración del cruce de la Línea Ecuatorial se han llevado a cabo pues hoy viernes estarán en plena línea ecuatorial haciendo libaciones a Neptuno y bautizando aquellos que nunca han cruzado esa línea imaginaria que divide al planeta en dos hemisferios.
Malaikos have reached steady Trade Winds and are preparing themselves for the Line Crossing Ceremony. Captn Eugenie will conduct the ceremony since she is the only one on board that has crossed the Equator line several years ago . ( San Diego – Hawaii race). I know that Julian will wear his magnificent Neptune costume and Alonso brought a Luchador mask.
Captn Eugenie será la que bautice a los demás pues ella ya ha cruzado en dos ocasiones la Línea ecuatorial ( San Diego – Hawaii en regata) , se disfrazarán de algún personaje relacionado con el reino de Neptuno y seguirán el protocolo. Lo único que sé es que Julian tiene su traje de Neptuno y Alonso del Luchador
CEREMONY. Although the crossing the line ceremonies changed somewhat over time, many of the accounts during the Age of Sail follow a general outline. First, the ceremony would often be announced by Eugenie the night before. She would alert the captain of the ship to the expected arrival of King Neptune the following day. When King Neptune arrived, he would temporarily take control of the ship from the captain and he would lead the ceremony, which would consist of trials that must be passed by the inexperienced sailors before they would be too accepted as one of the experienced members of the crew. Other characters may be present if decided by the experienced sailors.
Esperemos a que nos cuenten cómo fue su ceremonia.
Passed halfway ayer. have turned S to cross ITCZ. There is a trough approaching from E but hoping we can slip ahead then S off it. Keep ur news coming. Luv
How do we feel when we are in the middle of?
In the middle of the day, of the tunnel, of the life. In the middle of the trail, in the middle of love?
Fresh Fruits and veggies are gonne. Now they will keep on canned veggies and fruits, pasta, cous-cous, sauces, rice, salami, prosciutto, etc.. Food always tastes better on the boat.
Squalls and rains had helped to wash clothes. Captn Jules dropped by mistake his laundry bag several days ago and doesnt need any washing at all. Maybe that´s why he is very mindful about water made from watermaker. Rest of the crew is harvesting rainwater in buckets.
Dear readers,I shall continue in English. There are good friends that are following this journey and have asked for it. Please forgive my grammar mistakes. I know that our mexican readers will understand.
Malaika is almost half ways! They reported 18-23 K winds, Now in rain zone, wet nite expected. I say: “Forza, endurance and high spirits!”
Meanwhile lets get to know Alonso Breña the youngest of crew and of his family.
I would say that he is an explorer par excellence, despite his age ,25, his inclination to know different landscapes, ways of living, cultures and languages has taken him around the world. Has spent months by himself in Spain, France and New Zeland. In the past six months he has traveled to India, and Oaxaca. His charm and good disposition has opened him great gateways.
Caballero mexicano, loves horses and dogs.
His common phrase is “chill out, everything is fine” in Kenya would be a Hakuna Matata boy. Finished Accounting, starting up an entrepeneur export project. Handsome and well mannered, of course, is my nephew.
